In northern Cáceres, in the Spanish region of Extremadura, Plasencia invites travelers to step into a labyrinth of memory. Its Jewish Quarter, known as La Mota, and the Berrocal cemetery whisper stories of coexistence and exile. Today, these streets and monuments offer a cultural journey that begins with a walk and ends with a deeper understanding of Spain’s Sephardic legacy.
Set against the backdrop of the Jerte Valley, Plasencia is a city of contrasts, where medieval walls frame narrow streets and centuries-old traditions meet modern life. Located in northern Cáceres, Extremadura, it is less than three hours from Madrid and just over an hour from Cáceres, making it an accessible yet often overlooked destination for cultural travelers.
The best way to begin is by walking through the Jewish Quarter as it exists today. Start at the Puerta de Trujillo, one of the historic gates that once marked the entrance to La Mota. This district occupies the upper part of the old city, clinging to the defensive walls like a silent witness to centuries of history. Its streets, such as Trujillo, Zapatería, and Calle Judería, retain the medieval layout, creating a maze where every turn reveals a fragment of the past. Here stood the oldest synagogue in Extremadura, built in the thirteenth century and considered the finest of its time. Archaeological finds during the restoration of the Parador Nacional include ritual objects such as a yad, confirming its location. Though the building no longer survives, interpretive panels and guided tours help visitors imagine its role in shaping Jewish identity in medieval Spain.
The walk continues toward the Centro Cultural Las Claras, where exhibitions and cultural programs bring the Sephardic legacy to life. Each September, Plasencia celebrates the European Day of Jewish Culture, filling the city with music, lectures, and thematic tours that transform memory into dialogue. Beyond the walls, in the rugged landscape of El Berrocal, lies the Jewish cemetery, one of the most significant in Extremadura. Archaeological excavations have uncovered around twenty anthropomorphic tombs carved into rock, oriented toward Jerusalem in accordance with Jewish law. This site, in use until 1492, is a profound reminder that heritage is not only about architecture but also about the lives and stories preserved in stone.
Once the visitor has walked these streets, the history begins to unfold. Plasencia’s Jewish story starts in 1186, when King Alfonso VIII of Castile founded the city as part of his repopulation strategy and granted a Fuero, a charter that encouraged coexistence among Christians, Jews, and Muslims. This legal framework contained at least fifteen provisions concerning Jews, including the right to use public baths on Fridays and the autonomy to settle internal disputes through their own tribunal, known as the bet din. For mixed cases between Jews and Christians, a joint court, with one judge from each faith, met at the portal of San Nicolás Church, a striking example of medieval legal pluralism.
By the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, the Jewish community thrived. The aljama, or organized Jewish community, numbered up to two hundred families, making Plasencia one of the most important Sephardic centers in Extremadura. Jews played a vital role in finance, medicine, and trade, leasing vineyards and owning land, as documented in municipal records. Their influence extended to royal administration, and their cultural life was vibrant. The synagogue of La Mota was not only a place of worship but also a hub of learning, where rabbis taught Torah and Talmud and issued responsa consulted across the Iberian Peninsula.
The harmony of early centuries gave way to tension in the fifteenth century. The Laws of Ayllón in 1412 imposed harsh restrictions: Jews were confined to a walled quarter, forced to wear distinctive badges, and barred from public office. In 1477, the original synagogue and surrounding houses were confiscated to build the Convent of San Vicente Ferrer and the Palacio de Mirabel, marking the physical erasure of the Judería. A second synagogue was built on Calle Trujillo, but its life was short. In 1492, the Edict of Expulsion ended centuries of Jewish presence. Before leaving, the community attempted to sell the Berrocal cemetery and its properties, a transaction annulled by the Crown, which ordered the reuse of tombstones in Christian buildings, a tragic act of desecration.
Yet traces endure in street names, archival documents, and artistic works by conversos like Juan de Leví, whose altarpiece in the Cathedral of Santa María reflects the complex interplay of faith and identity in late medieval Spain.
Plasencia Today: Heritage and Landscape
Today, Plasencia is a member of the Jewish Heritage Network – Caminos de Sefarad, offering travelers a cultural experience that blends history with nature. After exploring the Judería, venture into the Jerte Valley, famous for its cherry blossoms, or enjoy local gastronomy, where Sephardic flavors inspire contemporary dishes. This fusion of heritage and landscape makes Plasencia a destination that speaks to both the mind and the senses.
Plasencia is easily reached via the A-66 highway, known as the Ruta de la Plata, and is well-connected by regional trains. The Jewish Quarter route is signposted and supported by digital resources, while specialized guides offer thematic tours that delve into Sephardic history. For those seeking a deeper experience, workshops and cultural events provide insight into the traditions that shaped this city.
Walking through La Mota is not just a tourist activity. It is an invitation to reflect on the layers of history that define Spain. Between the stones of the old walls and the whisper of the Jerte River, Plasencia preserves the memory of Sepharad, reminding us that cultural diversity is the foundation of heritage.
