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The Pallars Sobira Lombard Romanesque Route 

Explore the captivating Lombard Romanesque route in Catalonia and delve into the rich history of the Pyrenees on this cultural journey.

Carlos Benzaquen by Carlos Benzaquen
October 18, 2023
in Catalonia, Routes
A A

Sort, the picturesque capital of Pallars Sobira, is the largest region in Catalonia. With 6,666 residents spread over its 1,377 square kilometers, and just 4.8 inhabitants per square kilometer, it boasts one of the lowest population densities in the country. This low density has preserved one of the most cherished cultural treasures in the Pyrenees: the Pallars Sobira Lombard Romanesque route. 

Constructed between the 11th and 12th centuries, these churches showcase a distinctive Romanesque style infused with Lombard influences. The fresco murals adorning their interiors have remarkably withstood the test of time. 

Despite their historical significance, these buildings remain relatively undiscovered due to their scattered locations and lack of organized signage in Vall de Boi. However, exploring them in serene solitude offers an unparalleled sense of exclusivity and history in the Catalan Pyrenees. 

Here is our curated route to experience the most iconic churches of the Pallars Sobira Lombard Romanesque style: 

Santa Maria Monastery in Gerri de la Sal
Dating back to 807, this monastery was built following the pattern of grand medieval monastic buildings and was one of the wealthiest in the Urgell bishopric. 

Phone: +34 667 70 1820
Email: mo*************@gm***.com
Directions: Travel on the N-260 to the charming village of Gerri (free public car park).

Sant Joan Romanesque Church in Isil
Erected in the 12th century on the banks of the Noguera Pallaresa River, it stands on the site of a former Benedictine monastery from 1095 and was declared an Artistic Historic National Monument in 1951.

Phone: + 34 973 62 64 36
Email: ec******@ec******.com
Directions: From Esterri d’Aneu, take the scenic C-13 to Isil. 

Sant Pau i Sant Pere Church and Romanesque Paintings, Esterri de Cardos
Constructed in the 11th century with a semi-circular apse in the Lombard Romanesque tradition. The high altar features a replica of the 12th-century mural paintings (originals at MNAC in Barcelona). 

Phone: + 34 973 62 3184
Email: aj********@es***********.net
Directions: From Llavorsi, take the L-504 to Ainet de Cardos, then proceed towards Esterri de Cardos. The church is located in the upper part of the village.

Sant Pere Monastery in Burgal
This Benedictine monastic building dating back to 859 is one of the most significant examples of Catalan medieval monasteries, featuring three naves from the 11th-century Lombard architecture. The original murals are housed at MNAC in Barcelona.

Directions: Located near Escalo, next to the C-13, between Llavorsi and La Guingueta. Accessible only on foot.

Santa Maria d’Aneu Church
The sole surviving monument from the 9th-century monastic buildings, it features wooden beam vaulting, a semi-circular apse, and significant Romanesque paintings (originals at MNAC in Barcelona).

Directions: From Sort, take the C-13 towards Esterri d’Aneu, then turn right before reaching Esterri. 

Sant Iscle i Santa Victoria Romanesque Church in Surp
A modest rural building with a single wooden nave ending in a semi-circular apse, featuring murals attributed to the Master of the Final Judgement (distributed between MNAC, the Urgell Diocese Museum, and the Toledo Museum of Art in Ohio). 

Phone: + 34 973 62 0365
Email: aj********@ri***.net
Directions: From Rialp, head towards Llavorsi on the C-13 until you reach Surp. 

Santa Maria Romanesque Church in Ribera de Cardos
Features a bell tower attached to the main building, with only the cylindrical apse and western façade remaining from the original structure. It stands as one of the most original examples of the Romanesque in Pallars Sobira. 

Phone: +34 973 62 31 22
Directions: From Llavorsi, take the C-13 and continue on the L-504 to Ribera de Cardós. 

This enchanting tour can take an entire day or be savored over several days. It offers a comprehensive view of the valley, passing through quaint villages on the way to Aigüestortes National Park and Sant Maurici Lake. Following this 1,000-year-old route provides a profound understanding of how people managed to thrive in the challenging environment of the Pyrenees during the Middle Ages. 

Carlos Benzaquen

Carlos Benzaquen

Carlos, in addition to being a business consultant and philosopher, is passionate about the history of Sepharad and spreading awareness of the traces of Jewish traditions in Spain.

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